er boulders and watercourses and
roots of fallen trees. I followed as I could, expecting every moment to
find myself flying over my horse's head; stumbling, plunging, sliding,
but getting through with it somehow. The creature had never seen me
before, but was as careful of my safety as if I had been an old
acquaintance and friend. Only one misadventure befell me, if
misadventure it may be called. Shaken, and damp with heat, I was riding
under a wild orange tree, the fruit within reach of my hand. I picked an
orange and plunged my teeth into the skin, and I had to remember my
rashness for days. The oil in the rind, pungent as aromatic salts,
rushed on my palate, and spurted on my face and eyes. The smart for the
moment half blinded me. I bethought me, however, that oranges with such
a flavour would be worth something, and a box of them which was sent
home for me was converted into marmalade with a finer flavour than ever
came from Seville.

What more can I say of Dominica? I stayed with the hospitable C.'s for a
fortnight. At the appointed time the returning steamer called for me. I
left Capt. C. with a warm hope that he might not be consigned for ever
to a post which an English gentleman ought not to be condemned to
occupy; that if matters could not be mended for him where he stood, he
might find a situation where his courage and his understanding might be
turned to useful purpose. I can never forget the kindness both of
himself and his clever, good, graceful lady. I cannot forget either the
two dusky damsels who waited upon me like spirits in a fairy tale. It
was night when I left. The packet came alongside the wharf. We took
leave by the gleaming of her lights. The whistle screamed, and Dominica,
and all that I had seen, faded into a memory. All that I had seen, but
not all that I had thought. That island was the scene of the most
glorious of England's many famous actions. It had been won for us again
and again by the gallantry of our seamen and soldiers. It had been
secured at last to the Crown by the genius of the greatest of our
admirals. It was once prosperous. It might be prosperous again, for the
resources of the soil are untouched and inexhaustible. The black
population are exceptionally worthy. They are excellent boatmen,
excellent fishermen, excellent mechanics, ready to undertake any work if
treated with courtesy and kindness. Yet in our hands it is falling into
ruin. The influence of England there is gone.