e extraordinary in the extent and
clearness of the picture.

And it is a sweet, pure air to breathe--life-giving, and capable of
making the heart glad for the very joy of things. Driving over these
hills, although it took us from seven in the morning until nine o'clock
at night to complete the journey, was anything but tiring to the human
physique. Around and beyond, Nature spread herself in a delightful
panorama of scenic beauty--

"And every living thing did joy in life,
And every thing of beauty did seem living."

There were two or three other fellows on the ranche with my friend Bain.
Fine, big fellows they were, too; loose-limbed and strong featured.
Scarcely one of them was over five-and-twenty, yet you would have vowed
that such development in face, feature, and limb could not have been
attained before the age of thirty-five years. Silent, unassuming
fellows, too, not welcoming me with a smile even, nor with the slightest
demonstration of friendliness beyond a grip of the hand that made me
begin to feel glad that I had brought my "Elliman's" with me.

It is a peculiarity--at least, we think it a peculiarity--of the Western
man, that he rarely smiles. Perhaps it would be fairer to say that he
never smiles unless there is something very positive to smile at. He
seems to have such large ideas concerning all things, and to suggest by
his manner, especially when you are out on the plains with him, that he
cares more for his cattle, and for his horse particularly, than he does
for you. Yet no man is more ready with a helping hand--and a hand that
is capable of doing most things a man's hand can do--than he; none more
full of sympathy and sincere kindliness.

But he is an undemonstrative being, this man of the West, and you take a
long time to find out whether he likes you or not. If you are a
"tenderfoot" you can't do better than hold your tongue about the wonders
of Europe and its cities, about your own various exploits here and
there. You will learn a lot by not talking, and if you don't mind
soiling your hands a little, and keeping an eye lifted to discover the
way in which things are done, you will get on very well on a Western
cattle-ranche.

There was another ranche not far away, owned by an old settler, who had
his wife and daughter with him. These were the only women within our
immediate ken. She was a real child of the West, this old settler's
daughter, and as sweet and dainty as she was c