ightly as possible. I mark off my seed rows with the point of a lead
pencil--which I have handy back of my ear for writing the tags--sow the
seed thinly, and as evenly as possible by shaking it gently out of a
corner of the seed envelope, which is tapped lightly with the lead
pencil, and then press each row down with the edge of a board about as
thick as a shingle. Over the whole scatter cocoanut fiber (which may be
bought of most seedmen) or light prepared soil, as thinly as
possible--just cover the seeds from sight--and press the surface flat
with a small piece of board. A very light moistening, with a plant
sprinkler, completes the operation.

The temperature required in which to start the seeds of any plant will
be about the same as that which the same plant requires when grown.
Germination will be stronger and quicker, however, if ten to fifteen
degrees more, especially at night, can be supplied. If this can be given
as what the florists term "bottom heat," that is, applied under the seed
box, so much the better.

Until germination actually takes place, there is little danger of
getting the soil too warm, as it heats through from the bottom very
slowly. The box may be placed on the steam radiator, on a stand over the
floor radiator, or on a couple of bricks on the back of the kitchen
range; or the box may be supported over a lamp or small kerosene stove,
care being taken to have a piece of metal between the wood and the
direct heat of the flame. For the first few days it may be kept in the
shade, but as soon as the seeds push through they must be given all the
light possible.

If the seed flats or pans are prepared by the newer method suggested
above, they will probably not need any further watering, or not more
than one, until the seeds are up. The necessity of further watering, in
any case, will be shown by the soil's drying out on the surface. In the
case of small seeds, such as most flower seeds are, the moisture in the
soil will be retained much longer by keeping the box covered with a pane
of glass, slightly raised at one side. If the box is to be kept in
bright sunlight, shade the glass with a piece of paper, until the
seedlings are up, which will be in a day or so with some sorts, and
weeks with others.

From the time the little plants come up, until they are ready to prick
off in other flats or into pots, the boxes should never be allowed to
dry out. If they are being grown in winter or early spring, w