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in the Cree syllabic--Baseball even here--Rain and reminiscences--The World's Oldest Trust CHAPTER IV DOWN THE ATHABASCA ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-FIVE MILES TO GRAND RAPIDS "Farewell, Nistow!"--The rainy deck of a "sturgeon head" under a tarpaulin--Drifting by starlight--The wild geese overhead--Forty-foot gas-spout at the Pelican--The mosquito makes us blood-brothers--Four days on our Robinson Crusoe Island in the swirling Athabasca--Nomenclature of the North--Sentinels of the Silence CHAPTER V NINETY MILES OF RAPIDS The _Go-Quick-Her_ takes the bit in her mouth--Mallards on the half-shell--We set the Athabascan Thames afire--Sturgeon-head breaks her back on the Big Cascade--Fort McMurray--A stranded argosy, wreckage on the beach--Miss Christine Gordon, the Free Trader--A land flowing with coal and oil and gas and tar, timber and lime CHAPTER VI FORT CHIPEWYAN PAST AND PRESENT Old Fort Chipewyan--In the footsteps of Mackenzie and Sir John Franklin--Sir John turns parson--Grey Nuns and brown babies--Where grew the prize wheat of the Philadelphia Centennial--Militant missionaries fight each other for souls--The strong man Loutit--Wyllie at the forge--An electric watch-maker--Where the Gambel sparrow builds--"Out of old books" CHAPTER VII LAKE ATHABASCA AND ITS FOND DU LAC Farewell to the Mounted Police--Our blankets on the deck--Fern odours by untravelled ways--Typewriting and kodaking in 20 hours of daylight--Navigating Lake Athabasca by the power o' man--A 23-inch trout--First white women at Fond du Lac--Carlyle among the Chipewyans, a Fond du Lac library--The hermit padre and the hermit thrush--Worn north trails of the trapper--Caribou by the hundred thousands--The phalarope and the suffragette CHAPTER VIII FOND DU LAC TO FORT SMITH World's records beaten on the Athabasca--Down the Slave to Smith's Landing--Priests sink in the Rapid of the Drowned--The Mosquito Portage--Fort Smith, the new headquarters--Lady-slippers and night-hawks--Steamer built in the wilderness--Last stand of the wood bison--The grey wolf persists--Fur-trade and the silver-fox--Breeding pelicans. CHAPTER IX SLAVE RIVER AND GREAT SLAVE LAKE "Red lemol-lade" kiddies--Tons of crystal salt--Great Slave Lake and its fertile shores--Yellow-Knife and Dog-Rib, subjects of the Seventh Edward--Hay River and its annual mail--Ploughing with dogs--Bill balked--The Alexandra Falls--Bishop Bompas as a surgeon; amputatio
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