the Italian lakes.

Here we find Rome solitary, which we wished, but also wet and
dirty, which we did not. We hope it will soon be clear and dry. No
scenery and no city can stand the stripping off its robe of
atmosphere. And Rome, which is not _very_ rich in its natural
features, suffers in a high degree. We caught sight of the pope
yesterday on the steps of St. Peter's, made our obeisance, and
received that recognition with the hand which is very appropriate,
and I imagine to him not at all troublesome. Next week I hope to
see Cardinal Antonelli. We have been to-day to St. Paul's. Its
space is amazing, and at particular points it seems to vie with or
exceed St. Peter's. But there can be no real comparison in
magnificence, and St. Peter's is the more churchlike of the two.
The exterior of St. Paul's [beyond the walls] is very mean indeed,
and is in glaring contrast with the gorgeousness within.

_Rome, Oct. 30._--... I observe reserve in conversation, except
with such persons as cardinals. To two of them who wished me to
speak freely I have spoken without any restraint about the great
question immediately pending here. And next to them my most free
and open conversation has been with the pope, but of course I did
not go further than he led me, and on the affairs of Italy this
was nearly all the way. I have seen him twice, once in an audience
_quattr' occhi_, and once with my wife and daughters, Lady A.
Stanley accompanying us. Nothing can be more pleasant than the
impression made by his demeanour and language. He looks well and
strong, but seems to have a slight touch of deafness.(150) You ask
about our "apartment," and I send you (partly to inform the
Argylls, in the hope that they might take one of the floors) first
a sketch of our general position, nearly opposite the Europa, and
secondly a rude plan of the rooms. Half a bedroom unfortunately is
cut off from bad management, and the Frattina rooms are much too
small. Besides three rooms which we occupy there is another which
we do not. We are boarded too, which saves much trouble, and we
have the Stanleys here. We go quietly about our work of seeing
Rome. The Vatican has been much enriched since I was here. The
sculpture gallery is really wonderful in its superiority to all
others. I think if I were allowed to choose two pie