ropping, "that it rested him." An advantage, in my opinion, in no way
commensurate with the inconvenience that often attends the practice.

23. If you are satisfied with teaching him in a slovenly manner, you can
employ your right arm both for the "Toho" and "Drop;" but that is not
quite correct, for the former is a natural stop--being the pause to
determine exactly where the game is lying, preparatory to rushing in to
seize it--which you prolong by art,[6] whilst the other is wholly opposed
to nature. The one affords him great delight, especially when, from
experience, he has learnt well its object: the latter is always irksome.
Nevertheless, it must be firmly established. It is the triumph of your
art. It ensures future obedience. But it cannot be effectually taught
without creating more or less awe, and it should create awe. It is
obvious, therefore, that it must be advantageous to make a distinction
between the two signals--especially with a timid dog--for he will not then
be so likely to blink on seeing you raise your right hand when he is
drawing upon game. Nevertheless, there are breakers so unreasonable as not
only to make that one signal, but the one word "Drop," or rather "Down,"
answer both for the order to point, and the order to crouch! How can such
tuition serve to enlarge a dog's ideas?

24. To perfect him in the "Down," that difficult part of his
education,--difficult, because it is unnatural,--practise it in your
walks. At very uncertain, unexpected times catch his eye, having
previously stealthily taken hold of the checkcord--a long, light one, or a
whistle to call his attention, and then hold up your left arm. If he does
not _instantly_ drop, jerk the checkcord violently, and, as before, drag
him back to the exact spot where he should have crouched down. Admit of no
compromise. You must have _implicit_, _unhesitating_, _instant_ obedience.
When you quit him, he must not be allowed to crawl _an inch_ after you. If
he attempt it, drive a spike into the ground, and attach the end of the
checkcord to it, allowing the line to be slack; then leave him quickly,
and on his running after you he will be brought up with a sudden jerk. So
much the better; it will slightly alarm him. As before, take him back to
the precise place he quitted--do this invariably, though he may have
scarcely moved. There make him again "Drop"--always observing to jerk the
cord at the moment you give the command. After a few trials of t