ky Mountains, and form one
of the greatest impediments to travelling in these tracts.
As I gazed upon the steep descent, to have scrambled down which, even on
foot, would have been dangerous and difficult enough, I remembered that
I had passed, about half an hour before, a spot where the road "forked"
off into two separate directions, and at once resumed my march to this
place, where I had the satisfaction of perceiving that the grass was
yet rising under the recent passage of a wagon. A short and sharp canter
down a gentle slope brought me once more in sight of the stream and
of what was far nearer to my hopes, the long looked-for party with the
Friar.
The scene I now beheld was sufficiently striking for a picture. About
fifty feet beneath where I stood, and on the bank of a boiling, foaming
torrent, was a wagon, drawn by two large horses; a covering of canvas
formed an awning overhead, and curtains of the same material closed the
sides. A large, powerful-looking Mexican stood beating the stream with a
great pole, while the Friar, with his robes tucked up so as to display
a pair of enormous naked legs, assisted in this singular act of
flagellation, from time to time addressing a hasty prayer to a small
image which I perceived he had hung up against the canvas covering.
The noise of the rushing water and the crashing sound of the sticks
prevented my hearing the voices, which were most volubly exerted all the
while, and which, by accustoming myself to the din, I at last perceived
were used in exhorting the horses to courage. The animals, however, gave
no token of returning confidence, nor showed the slightest inclination
to advance. On the contrary, whenever led forward a pace or two, they
invariably sprang back with a bound that threatened to smash their
tackle or upset the wagon; nor was it without much caressing and
encouragement that they would stand quiet again. Meanwhile, the Friar's
exertions were redoubled at every moment, and both his prayers and his
thrashings became more animated. Indeed, it was curious to watch with
what agility his bulky figure alternated from the work of beating the
water to gesticulating before "the Virgin." Now, as I looked, a small
corner of the canvas curtain was moved aside, and a hand appeared,
which, even without the large straw fan it carried, might have been
pronounced a female one. This, however, was speedily withdrawn on
some observation from the Friar, and the curtain was clo
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