s these gargoyles, there are
in many other points of the external building representations of
fiendish faces and figures, as if in the act of flying from the
building, under the influence of a terrible spell: by this, as my guide
said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and worship of the
church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that was evil
flee.

One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account of it,
interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most
circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which
are excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by
laborious climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that
the whole carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn
worship and adoration, in which the artist offered up his best faculties
to the praise of the Creator.

[Illustration of gargoyles]

After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel. Now,
these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen,
are delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and
home-like. Our snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal
grate; our table stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth,
and delicate china cups; and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear,
we are all mortal, and emotions of the beautiful and sublime tend
especially to make one hungry. We, therefore, comforted ourselves over
the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory nature of all
human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the _present_ whiteness of the
bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all declared,
with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I moved
an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish
the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we
gathered round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that
poetry was a humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are
the inconsistencies of human nature!

"Nevertheless," said I to S----, after dinner, "I am going back again
to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the whole
figure while I am about it."

Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the town
afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught
by some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought