brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and
opensteek hems about it--a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will
stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."

I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has ever
been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense
windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses
in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the
colored rays through painted windows--an emblem, perhaps, of the cold,
definite, intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the
many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times.

After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to
Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I,
however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about
it.

I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that nothing is so
utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at cathedrals. The
strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense
arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to
generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you
to fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was
told, many before me.

Mr. S. and C----, however, made amends, by their great activity and
zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from
them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had
their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it
for half a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them.
And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of
this circumstance.

Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill as to
need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of
the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had
to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our
kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went
in the carriage with them.

Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we saw a
striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is
still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation
with great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I
noticed, as