9 only.
[Footnote: See H. Littlehales, "Some Notes on the Road from Canterbury
in the Middle Ages" (Chaucer Society, 1898).]
There is nothing to keep us in Welling, nor indeed in Bexley Heath,
except to note that they are the first two Kentish villages upon our
route, now little more than suburban places spoiled of any virtue they
may have possessed. It is said that at Clapton Villa in the latter
place there is preserved "an ancient and perfect sacramental wafer"--
perhaps an unique treasure.
The road runs straight on through a rather sophisticated countryside,
almost into Crayford, but in preparing to cross the Cray the old road
has apparently been lost. We may be sure, however, of not straying
more than a few yards out of the way, if we keep as straight on as
maybe, that is to say, if we take the road to the right at the fork,
which later passes Crayford church on the south.
Crayford, though it be anything but picturesque, is nevertheless not
without interest. It is the Creccanford of the "Saxon Chronicle,"
and was the scene of the half-legendary final battle between the
Britons here and Hengist, who utterly discomfited them, so that we
read they forsook all this valley, even, so we are asked to believe,
those strange caves which they are said to have burrowed in the chalk
for their retreat, and which are so plentiful hereabouts, but which
assuredly are infinitely older than the advent of the Saxon pirates.
The real interest of Crayford, however, as of more than one place in
this valley, lies in its church. This is dedicated in honour of the
companion of St Augustine, St Paulinus, who became the third Bishop of
Rochester. The form of the church is curious, the arcade of the nave
being in the midst of it, while the chancel, of about the same width
as the nave, is possessed of two arcades and divided into three
aisles; thus the arcade of the nave abuts upon the centre of the
chancel arch. Parts of the church certainly date from Chaucer's day,
but most of it is Perpendicular in style.
More interesting than Crayford itself are North Cray and Foot's Cray
in the upper valley beyond Bexley. At North Cray there is one of the
best pictures Sassoferrato ever painted, a Crucifixion, over the altar.
At Foot's Cray, the church, besides being beautiful in its situation,
possesses a great square Norman font.
These places are, however, off the Pilgrims' Road, which climbs up
through Crayford High Street, and then in abou
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