ter of the Kings of England..."] of the time of
James I., who had acted as clerk of the kitchen to Elizabeth. His wife
lies opposite him with others of his family. It is more interesting for
us, however, to note that in Chaucer's day the church was chiefly
famous for its shrine of St Hildefrith, a soveran advocate against the
vapours.

I left Swanscombe in the early afternoon, and passing through
Northfleet with its great church of St Botolph I followed the road with
many happy glimpses of the Thames, avoiding Gravesend and making
southward for the Watling Street, which I found at last, and an old
Inn at the cross roads upon it. Thence I marched upon what I took to
be the veritable way and was presently assured of this at Singlewell,
which it is said was originally Schingled well, that is a well roofed
with shingles of wood. This well stood within the parish of Ifield,
but so famous was it, for it was known to every pilgrim, that it
presently quite put out the name of the parish, which in 1362 is
described as Ifield-juxta-Schyngtedwell, and to this day the place is
marked on the maps as Singlewell or Ifield. A chapel was soon built
beside the well and here doubtless the pilgrims prayed and made
offerings. Singlewell, however, must not be confused with St Thomas's
well a mile further on the road, which is still used and still known
as St Thomas's well.

All this proved to me that I was indeed upon the old road, and so I
went on across Cobham Park without a thought of the great house,
intent now on the noble city of Rochester, which presently as I came
over the last hill I saw standing in all its greatness over the broad
river of Medway, its mighty castle four square upon the further bank.
Then was I confirmed in my heart in the words of Chaucer--

Lo Rouchestre stant here fast by.

CHAPTER III

THE PILGRIMS' ROAD

ROCHESTER

One comes down the hill into Rochester, through Strood, on this side
the Medway, to find little remaining of interest in a place that has
now become scarcely more than a suburb of the episcopal city. Some
memory, however, lingers still in Strood of St Thomas, for certain
folks there hated him and to spite him one day as he rode through the
village they cut the tail from his horse. Mark now the end of this
misdeed. In Strood thereafter everyone of their descendants was born,
it is said, with a tail, even as the brutes which perish.

The church of Strood, restored in 1812, i