e metal on gilded
parchment, our laws were directed to the preservation of
pure metals for textile purposes.
[587] Matthew Paris, "Hist. Angl.," p. 473, ed. Paris,
1644. See Hartshorne's "Mediaeval Embroideries," pp. 23,
24.
[588] The reproduction by the Arundel Society of this
picture will familiarize those who care for English art
with what is, perhaps, its finest example, next to the
crosses of Queen Eleanor. It has been erroneously
attributed to Van Eyk, but it is undoubtedly English.
That its art is contemporary with the time of Richard
II., is shown by the design and motives of the woven
materials and embroidery in which the king and his
attendant saints are clothed. They remind us of the
piece of silk in the Kensington Museum, into which are
woven (probably in Sicilian looms) the cognizance of the
King's grandfather, the sun with rays; that of his
mother Joan, the white hart; and his own, his dog Math.
This is a good example of the value of an individual
pattern. It helps us to affix dates to other specimens
of similar style.
[589] See Miss Strickland's mention of the Countess of
Oxford in her "Life of Queen Elizabeth of York," p. 46.
[590] From the fragments found, it appeared that King
John's mantle was of a strong red silk. Till lately,
when it was effaced by being completely gilt, the mantle
on the recumbent effigy was of a bright red, bordered
with gold and gems. See Greene's "Worcester," p. 3,
quoted in the "Report of the Archaeological Association
of Worcester," p. 53.
[591] "Notice sur les Attaches d'un Sceau," par M.
Leopold Delisle (Paris, 1854); and also Rock's
Introduction to "Textile Fabrics," p. xxii.
[592] The opus Anglicanum often included borders and
orphreys set with jewellers' work (or its imitation,
worked in gold thread), gems, and pearls.
[593] Edward III. had from William de Courtenay an
embroidered garment, "inwrought with pelicans, images,
and tabernacles of gold. The tabernacles were like
niches, with pinnacles and roofs."
[594] Bock, "Liturgische Gewaender," i. p. 211, says
there is a piece of opus Anglicanum in the treasury of
Aix-la-Chapelle, called the Cope of Leo III.
[595] For further notice of the "opus Anglicanum," see
chapter (_ante_) on ecclesiastical embroideries.
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