roidery." First on his list is the Cope now in the possession of
Colonel Butler Bowden, of Pleasington, near Blackburn, Lancashire. I
give his account of the mutilated condition, from which he has made
his beautifully drawn restoration. "Formerly," he says, "portions of
this cope, some made up into chasuble, stole, maniple, and some scraps
detached, were at Mount St. Mary's College, Spink Hill, near
Chesterfield, Derbyshire."
The well-known architect, the late Augustus Welby Pugin, having seen
them (or at least the chasuble), wrote on the 20th April, 1849, to the
Rector of the College, "I found it to be of English work of the time
of Edward I., and have no hesitation in pronouncing it to be the most
interesting and beautiful specimen of church embroidery I have ever
seen."
Other portions of the cope had been made up into an altar-frontal, and
were in the possession of Henry Bowden, Esq., of Southgate House,
Derbyshire, some four or five miles from the college.
The ground is crimson velvet. The designs are wrought in gold, silver,
silk, and seed pearls. The silks are worked in chain, or rather in
split stitch. It contains between seventy and eighty figures.
Only two small fragments remain of the quasi-hood.
In the orphrey are kings, queens, archbishops, and bishops. In the
body of the cope are the Annunciation--Adoration of the Magi--Our Lady
enthroned at the right of her Divine Son. _Lowest row_ of single
figures--St. Simon, St. Jude, St. James, St. Thomas, St. Andrew, St.
Peter, St. Paul, St. Barnabas, St. Matthew, St. Philip, St. James, St.
Bartholomew. _Middle row_--St. Edward the Confessor--a Bishop--St.
Margaret, St. John the Evangelist, St. John the Baptist, St.
Catherine, an Archbishop, St. Edmund king and martyr. _Top row_--St.
Lawrence, St. Mary Magdalene, St. Martha (or St. Helen?), St. Stephen.
In the intervals, angels seated on faldstool thrones, and bearing
stars; also two popinjays.
Mr. Clifford describes the Steeple Aston Cope. The ground is of a
richly ribbed faded silk. The design worked in gold and silks is
enclosed in quatrefoils of oak and ivy. The Syon Cope he refers to
Rock's "Textile Fabrics." See Appendix.
The Dalmatic from Anagni, exhibited at Rome in 1870, he thinks is
probably English.
The Pluvial in the Basilica of St. John Lateran at Rome, he speaks of
as "having much the appearance of the celebrated Opus Anglicanum."
He describes the subjects embroidered on it thus: "No
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