ng I
immediately discovered the cause of my being so much puzzled as to its
architecture. There are two doors in this magnificent room; one leads to
the Duchess Drawing Room, the other to the landing, and to produce the
air of privacy so delightful to a bookworm the latter is covered with
imitative books, exactly corresponding with the rest of the library. I
remembered on my first entering the room from the staircase, and when the
servant had closed the door, there appeared but one entrance, which was
that by which we left this noble room, passing thence into the Duchess's
room. I puzzled my brains in vain to make out the geography of the
place, but could make neither top nor tail, and should never have solved
the enigma but for this third visit. "I have been to Fonthill," he said,
"since I saw you. I don't think much of what Papworth has done there. I
rode thirty-eight miles in one day without getting out of the saddle.
That was pretty well, eh?" I thought so indeed for a man in his seventy-
ninth year.
* * * * *
On the 28th of October, 1844, we left Bath determined to examine the once
far-famed Abbey of Fonthill, and to see if its scenery was really as fine
as report had represented. The morning was cold and inauspicious, but
when we reached Warminster the sun burst out through the mists that had
obscured him, and the remainder of the day was as genial and mild as if
had been May. We procured the aid of a clownish bumpkin to carry our
carpet bag, and left Warminster on foot. About four miles from that town
those barren and interminable downs are reached which seem to cover the
greater part of Wiltshire. The country is as wild as the mountain
scenery of Wales, and the contrast between it and the polished city we
had left in the morning was truly singular. We took the road to
_Hindon_, but a worthy old man, of whom we asked particulars, pointed out
a pathway, which cut off at least a mile and a half. We followed his
direction, and left the high road. Mounting the hill by a steep and
chalky road we reached a considerable elevation; before us extended a
succession of downs, and in the extreme distance a blue hill of singular
form, at least nine miles off, was crowned by buildings of very unusual
appearance. Curiosity as to the place was at its utmost stretch, but our
ignorant bumpkin could tell nothing about it. It surely cannot be
Fonthill was the instant suggestion? Impossible. Can we see the remain
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