and experiences, a full view of
the Burman at home, and the easy joys of village life. First of all,
there was the morning procession of the stately _pongyes_, carrying
their empty begging-bowls, and looking neither to the right nor left;
there were delicious hours in the forests; boating and fishing
expeditions on the rivers, or rides to the ruins of ancient cities,
half buried in jungle.

Shafto and Sophy saw so many novelties that they were almost
bewildered, but not nearly so much bewildered or impressed as was the
Professor, when first introduced to the library of an ancient
monastery, in comparison with whose age his beloved Bodleian was a mere
infant. Here the volumes were written on palm leaves, then rubbed over
with oil to toughen and preserve them; the edges were richly gilt and
fastened together by drilling a hole at one end, through which a cord
was passed, then they were placed in elaborate lacquer boxes. There
were countless numbers of such books, devout and mystic, all inscribed
in Pali; they included the "Three Baskets of the Law," also the Laws of
Manu, which dated from the fifth century before Christ. Professional
scribes were kept constantly employed in re-copying and restoring these
precious tomes, as the palm leaves only last about a hundred years,
after which they become brittle and difficult to decipher, and the
copyists have an endless task.

The Professor, attended by an interpreter, haunted the library, made
eloquent signs to the _pongyes_ in charge, and was permitted to examine
and make notes of the rarest of their frail treasures, for which favour
he duly made a generous acknowledgment.

Thanks to Mr. Gregory's courier, the travellers found comfortable
quarters in his own ancestral village, and here they were able to watch
the inhabitants both at work and play. They saw the oxen treading out
grain, men working an oil mill, or caging fish; women weaving gay
material, and children plaiting straw mats; so much for day-time
occupations! At nights there were songs, dancings, gamblings, and
games; these included chess, played somewhat differently from what it
is in Europe, but still the same chess as when it crossed the frontiers
from China. There was a king, but instead of a queen a general,
instead of bishops, elephants; and some of the moves were unusual.

Mr. Gregory, who rather fancied himself as a chess-player, boldly
challenged one of the elders and, with the entire village as so