o and fro the hot flat or box irons
over white starched linen.

Each ironer has a bit of wax, which he passes over the hot iron when he
comes to the front, the collar, or the wrist-bands, and he boasts that he
can goffer a frill or "bring up" a pattern of lace better than a
Chinaman.

Alfonso and his party drove along the handsome Rue de Rivoli, with its
half-mile of arcades, attractive shops, and hotels of high grade, and
up the Rue Castiglione, which leads to the Place Vendome. Here in one
of a hundred open places in Paris rises the Column Vendome in imitation
of Trajan's column in Rome. The inscription records that it is to
commemorate Napoleon's victories in 1805 over the Austrians and Russians.
On the pedestal are reliefs which represent the uniforms and weapons
of the conquered armies. The memorable scenes, from the breaking of camp
at Boulogne down to the Battle of Austerlitz, are shown on a broad bronze
band that winds spirally up to the capital, and the shaft is surmounted
by a bronze statue of Napoleon in his imperial robes.

Fortunately Alfonso's carriage overtook Leo's party, and they visited
together the pretty arcades and gardens of the Palais Royal. In the open
courts are trees, flowers, fountains, and statues, and on the four sides
are inviting cafes and shops which display tempting jewelry and other
beautiful articles. On summer evenings a military band plays here.
Returning, the ladies stepped into the Grand Magasin du Louvre. At a
buffet, refreshments were gratis, and everywhere were crowds, who
evidently appreciated the great variety of materials for ladies' dresses,
the fine cloths, latest novelties, exquisite laces, etc. The ladies
planned to return here, and to make a visit to the famous Au Bon Marche,
where cheap prices always prevail. Most of the afternoon was spent in the
Louvre, a vast palace of art, and the evening at the Theatre Francais,
the ceiling of which represents France, bestowing laurels upon her three
great children, Moliere, Corneille, and Racine. The Theatre Francais
occupies the highest rank. Its plays are usually of a high class, and the
acting is admirable. The government grants this theatre an annual subsidy
of about fifty thousand dollars.

Early next morning, the Harrises took carriages to the Halles Centrales,
or union markets. These markets consist of ten pavilions intersected by
streets. There are twenty-five hundred stalls which cover twenty-two
acres, and cost fifte