t a loss when a repartee was needed, and it was proposed to give me
an opportunity. Next surprise: a call as we were nearing Seattle from
a large and noticeable lady who introduced herself saying:

"I am the president of a club which I started myself, and feel bound
to help on. I have followed you about a good deal, and shall be much
obliged if you will jot down for me to read to this club everything
you have said since you came on board. I know they will enjoy it." I
was sorry my memory failed me entirely on that occasion. Still it was
a great compliment!

But the Muir Glacier! We had to keep three and a half miles away, lest
the steamer be injured by the small icebergs which broke off the
immense mass into the water with a thunderous roar. A live glacier
advances a certain distance each day and retreats a little. Those who
visited the glacier brought back delicate little blue harebells they
found growing in the clefts of ice. No description of my impressions?
Certainly not! Too much of that has been done already.

We saw curious sights along the way, such as the salmon leaping into a
fenced-in pool to deposit their spawn; there they could be easily
speared, dried, and pitched into wagons as we pitch hay in New
England. I saw the Indians stretching the salmon on boards put up in
the sun, their color in the sun a brilliant pinkish red.

I saw bears fishing at the edge of water, really catching fish in
their clumsy paws. Other bears were picking strawberries for their
cubs. As I watched them strolling away, I thought they might be
looking for a stray cow to milk to add flavour to the berries.

We stopped at Wrangel to look at the totem poles, many of which have
since been stolen as the Indians did not wish to sell them; our usual
method of business with that abused race. Totem poles are genealogical
records, and give the history of the family before whose door they
stand. No one would quietly take the registered certificates of
Revolutionary ancestors searched for with great care from the Colonial
Dames or members of the New England Society, and coolly destroy them.
I agree with Charles Lamb who said he didn't want to be like a potato,
all that was best of him under ground.

At Sitka the brilliant gardens and the large school for Indian girls
were the objects of interest. It is a sad fact that the school which
teaches these girls cleanly habits, the practical arts of sewing, and
cooking simple but appetizing dishes