ut
appearing to exaggerate. Construction in relation to use went for
nothing. A group of Louis Quatorze scrolls put together to form
something like a brooch with a pin at the back to fasten it to the
dress, which it rather disfigured than adorned; heavy chain-like
bracelet, pins, studs, &c., of the most hideous conceits imaginable,
characterised the jewellery designs of Birmingham until about 1854-55,
when a little more intelligence and enterprise was introduced, and our
manufacturers learned that work well designed sold even better than the
old-styled ugliness. A great advance has taken place during the past
thirty years, and Birmingham jewellers now stand foremost in all matters
of taste and design, the workmen of to-day ranking as artists indeed,
even the commonest gilt jewellery turned out by them now being of
high-class design and frequently of most elaborate workmanship. At the
present time (March 1885) the trade is in a very depressed condition,
thousands of hands being out of employ or on short time, partly arising,
no doubt, from one of those "changes of fashion" which at several
periods of our local history have brought disaster to many of our
industrial branches. It has been estimated that not more than one-half
of the silver jewellery manufactured in Birmingham in 1883, passed
through the Assay Office, but the total received there in the twelve
months ending June 24th, 1883, amounted to no less than 856,180 ounces,
or 31 tons 17 cwt. 4 lbs. 4 oz., the gold wares received during same
period weighing 92,195 ounces, or 3 tons 7 cwt. 12 lbs. 3 oz., the total
number of articles sent in for assaying being 2,649,379. The directory
of 1780 gave the names of twenty-six jewellers; that of 1880 gives
nearly 700, including cognate trades. The fashion of wearing long silver
guard-chains came in in about 1806, the long gold ones dating a score
years later, heavy fob chains then going out. The yearly make of wedding
rings in Birmingham is put at 5,000 dozen. Precious stones are not to be
included in the list of locally manufactured articles, nor yet "Paris
pastes," though very many thousands of pounds worth are used up every
year, and those anxious to become possessed of such glittering trifles
will find dealers here who can supply them with pearls from 6d., garnets
from 2d., opals from 1s., diamonds, rubies, emeralds, amethysts, &c.,
from half-a-crown, the prices of all running up according to size, &c.,
to hundreds of pou