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decorate their entrances with head-stalls and straps, and those that have no archway put up awnings. In the Square there are continually stalls set up for earthenware jars and pitchers and for articles in tin. In the outlying streets there are inns, at whose doors five or six mules with their heads together are almost constantly to be seen; there are crockery stores containing brooms and every kind of jug and glazed pan; there are little shops in doorways holding big baskets full of grain; there are dark taverns, which are also eating-houses, to which the peasants go to eat on market days, and whose signs are strings of dried pimentoes and cayenne peppers or an elm branch. In the written signs there is a truly Castilian charm, chaste and serene. At the Riojano oven one reads: "'Bred' baked for all 'commers.'" And at the Campico inn it says: "Wine served by Furibis herself." The shops and the inns have picturesque names too. There is the Sign of the Moor, and the Sign of the Jew, and the Sign of the Lion, and one of the Robbers. The streets of Castro, especially those near the centre, where the crowd is greater, are dirty and ill-smelling in summer. Clouds of flies hover about and settle on the pairs of blissfully sleeping oxen; the sun pours down his blinding brilliance; not a soul passes, and only a few greyhounds, white and black, elegant and sad, rove about the streets... In all seasons, at twilight, a few young gentlemen promenade in the Square. At nine at night in the winter, and at ten in summer, begins the reign of the watchmen with their dramatic and lamentable cry. * * * * * Alzugaray gave Caesar these details by degrees, while they were both seated in the hotel getting ready to dine. "And the type? The ethnic type? What is it, according to you?" asked Caesar. "A type rather thin than fat, supple, with an aquiline nose, black eyes..." "Yes, the Iberian type," said Caesar, "that is how it struck me too. Tall, supple, dolichocephalic... It seems to me one can try to put something through in this town..." III. CAESAR'S LABOURS FIRST STEPS "And what have you been doing all day? Tell me." "I think, my dear Alzugaray," said Caesar, "that I can say, like my namesake Julius: 'Veni, vidi, vice.'" "The devil! The first day?" "Yes." "Show me. What happened?" "I left the house and entered the cafe downstairs. There was no one there but a small boy, from
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