st to the scene without the walls did the city of Vittoria
present! Scarcely had we left behind us the measured tread of moving
battalions, the dark columns of winding cavalry, when we entered streets
brilliantly lighted. Gorgeous and showy equipages turned everywhere;
music resounded on all sides; servants in splendid liveries made way
for ladies in all the elegance of evening dress, enjoying the delicious
coolness of a southern climate at sunset; groups of officers in full
uniform chatted with their fair friends from the balconies of the large
majestic houses; the sounds of gaiety and mirth were heard from every
open lattice, and the chink of the castanet and the proud step of the
fandango echoed around us.

Women, dressed in all the perfection of Parisian coquetry, loitered
along the streets, wondering at the strange sights the Spanish city
afforded--themselves scarcely less objects of wonder to the dark-eyed
senoras, who, with close-drawn mantillas, peered cautiously around them
to see the strangers. Young French officers swaggered boastfully about
with the air of conquerors, while now and then some tall and swarthy
Spaniard might be seen lowering with gloomy frown from under the broad
shadow of his sombrero, as if doubting the evidence of his own senses at
seeing his native city in the occupation of the usurper.

In the open plazas, too, the soldiers were picketed, and stood in
parties around their fires, or lay stretched on the rich tapestries they
had carried away as spoils from the southern provinces. Cups and goblets
of the rarest handiwork and of the most costly materials were strewn
about them. The vessels of the churches; the rich cloths of gold
embroidery that had decorated the altars; pictures, the _chefs-d'oeuvre_
of the first masters--all were there, in one confused heap, among
baskets of fruit, wine-skins, ancient armour, and modern weapons. From
time to time some brilliant staff would pass, usually accompanied by
ladies, who seemed strangely mixed up with all the military display of
the scene.

My guide, after conversing for a few moments with a _sous-officier_
of his regiment, turned from the Plaza into a narrow street, the
termination to which was formed by a large building now brilliantly lit
up. As we approached, I perceived that two sentries were on guard at the
narrow gate, and a large banner, with the imperial 'N' in the centre,
waved heavily over the entrance. 'This is _le quartier general,_