river, he
visited Lyons, Avignon, and Marseilles, whither he wended his way
deliciously 'thro' a country sweetely declining to the South and
Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive-yards, orange-trees,
myrtils, pomegranads, and the like sweete plantations, to which belong
pleasantly-situated villas ...... as if they were so many heapes of snow
dropp'd out of the clouds amongst these perennial greenes.' Taking mules
to Cannes, he went by sea to Genoa 'having procur'd a bill of health
(without which there is no admission at any towne in Italy).' On
reaching 'Mongus, now cal'd Monaco' on the route, 'we were hastened
away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up and
see this strong and considerable place.'

On Oct. 16th., after 'much ado and greate perill' he landed on Italian
soil. He was fully prepared to have the most delicious pleasure in this
classical land, having already, even during the stormy weather off the
coast, 'smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange,
citron, and jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward.'

It would be pleasant to ramble through Italy in Evelyn's company, and to
share with him the many enjoyments recorded in his _Diary_: but space
forbids. From Genoa he went to Leghorn and Pisa, from Pisa to Florence,
thence to Sienna, and on to Rome. 'I came to Rome on the 4th November,
1644, about 5 at night, and being perplexed for a convenient lodging,
wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one conducted us to
Monsieur Petits, a Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted,
and having bargained with my host for 20 crownes a moneth, I caused a
good fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet.
The next morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got
acquainted with several persons who had long lived at Rome.'

Evelyn's description of the interesting sights he saw in Rome is so good
that it might well be perused in place of modern guide-books by those
visiting the city. There is a delightful attractiveness about it, in
which these up-to-date works are sometimes wanting. But even his
youthful energy began to tire, and his keen appetite to become sated
with continuous sightseeing. After more than six months of it 'we now
determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except what
should happen to come in our way, when my companion Mr. Henshaw or
myself should go out to take the aire.' Then, howev