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tions--Country Carts--Plain of Duvno--Mahmoud Effendi--Old Tombs--Duvno--Fortress--Bosnian Frontier--Vidosa--Parish Priest--National Music--Livno-- Franciscan Convent--Priestly Incivility--Illness--Quack Medicines--Hungarian Doctor--Military Ambulance--Bosna Serai--Osman Pacha--Popularity--Roads and Bridges--Mussulman Rising in Turkish Croatia--Energy of Osman Pacha 227--242 CHAPTER XVII. Svornik--Banialuka--New Road--Sport--Hot Springs--Ekshesoo-- Mineral Waters--Celebrated Springs--Goitre--The Bosna--Trout Fishing--Tzenitza--Zaptiehs--Maglai--Khans--Frozen Roads--Brod--The Save--Austrian Sentry--Steamer on the Save--Gradiska--Cenovatz--La lingua di tre Regni--Culpa River--Sissek--Croatian Hotel--Carlstadt Silk--Railway to Trieste--Moravian Iron--Concentration of Austrian Troops--Probable Policy--Watermills--Semlin--Belgrade 243--258 SERVIA: Its Social, Political, and Financial Condition 261--285 CONCLUSION 286 APPENDIX 287--288 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A MOONLIGHT BIVOUAC _Frontispiece._ OFFICIAL SEAL OF OMER PACHA _On Title-page._ SIGNATURE OF AUTHOR IN TURKISH CHARACTERS _page_ vi MAP OF MONTENEGRO _To face page_ 1 MAP OF SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF EUROPEAN TURKEY " 288 [Illustration: Map of Montenegro.] HERZEGOVINA. CHAPTER I. Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian Patriot--Zara--Sebenico--Falls of Kerka--Dalmatian Boatmen--French Policy and Austrian Prospects--Spalatro--Palace of Diocletian--Lissa--Naval Action--Gravosa--Ragusa--Dalmatian Hotel--Change of Plans. _'Omer Pacha will proceed with the army of Roumelia to quell the disturbance in Herzegovina.'_ Such, I believe, was the announcement which confirmed me in the idea of visiting the Slavonic provinces of European Turkey. Had any doubts existed in my mind of the importance attached by the Ottoman government to the pacification of these remote districts, the recall to favour of Omer Pacha, and the despatch of so large a force under his command, would have sufficed to remove them. As it was, the mere desire to keep myself _au courant_ of the events of the day, together with the inte
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