just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
_4th November, 1872._--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.
_5th November, 1872._--We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
down for water.
_6th November, 1872._--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
python here, and fine flowers.
_7th November, 1872, Sunday._--Remained, but the headman forbade his
people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
sent us a present; I returned three times its value.
_8th November, 1872._--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but the
Lake folks are poor except in fish.
Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneo
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