f roasted and stuffed with chestnuts, you may have a dozen
different dishes made of its remains, while the fat that has basted it
you hoard and use sparingly for weeks. For instance, you cook a
cabbage with a little of it instead of with water. In South Germany,
goose livers are prepared with it, and are just as much liked as _pate
de foie gras_.

Hares are eaten and most carefully prepared in Germany. They are
skinned in a way that an English poulterer has been known to learn
from his German customers and pronounce very troublesome, and the back
is usually served separately, larded and basted with sour cream.
Vegetables are cooked less simply than in England, and you will find
the two countries disagree heatedly about them. The Englishman does
not want his peas messed up with grease and vinegar, and though he
will be too polite to say so, he will silently agree with his plain
cook who says that peas served in the pod is a dish only fit for pigs
and what she has never been accustomed to; while the German will get
quite dejected over the everlasting plain boiled cabbage and potatoes
he is offered week after week in his English boarding-house. At home,
he says, he is used to mountains of fat asparagus all the spring, and
he thinks slightly of your skinny green ones or of the wooden stuff
you import and pay less for because it is "foreign." He likes potatoes
cooked in twenty various ways, and when mashed he is of opinion that
they should not be black or lumpy. He wants a dozen different
vegetables dished up round one joint of beef, and in summer salads of
various kinds on various occasions, and not your savage mixed salad
with a horrible sauce poured out of a bottle; furniture polish he
believes it to be from its colour. In the autumn he expects chestnuts
cooked with gravy and vegetables, or made into light puddings; and
apple sauce, he assures you, should be a creamy white, and as smooth
as a well made puree. If he is of the South he would like a
_Mehlspeise_ after his meat, _Spetzerle_ if he comes from Wuertemberg;
one of a hundred different dishes if he is a Bavarian. He will not
allow that your national milk puddings take their place. If he is a
North German his _Leibgericht_ may be _Rote Gruetze_. This is eaten
enormously all over Denmark and North Germany in summer, and is
nothing in the world but a ground rice or sago mould made with fruit
juice instead of milk. The old-fashioned way was to squeeze
raspberries and