irradiated with Truth, and the three he will ever strive to keep
together.

PART I

THE HEART OF NATURE

CHAPTER I

THE SIKKIM HIMALAYA

The Sikkim Himalaya is a region first brought prominently into
notice by the writings of Sir Joseph Hooker, the great naturalist, who
visited it in 1848. It lies immediately to the east of Nepal, and can
now be reached by a railway which ascends the outer range to
Darjiling. It is drained by the Teesta River, up the main valley of
which a railway runs for a short distance. The region is therefore
easily accessible. For the purposes of this book it may be taken to
include the flat open forest and grass-covered tract known as the
Terai, immediately at the base of the mountain. This is only a few
hundreds of feet above sea-level, so that from there to the summit of
the Himalaya there is a rise of nearly 28,000 feet in about seventy
miles. The lower part is in the 26th degree of latitude, so that the
heat is tropical. And as the region comes within the sweep of the
monsoon from the Bay of Bengal, there is not only great heat in the
plains and lower valleys, but great moisture as well. The
mountain-sides are in consequence clothed with a luxuriant vegetation.

To enter this wonderful region the traveller has first to cross the
Ganges--the sacred river of the Hindus. Great rivers have about
them a fascination all their own. They produce in us a sense of
everlastingness and irresistibility. The Ganges, more than a mile
wide, comes sweeping along in deep majestic flood from the far
distance to the far distance, on and on unendingly, from all time to
all time, and in such depth and volume that nothing human can
withstand it. In the dry season, when it is low and the sun is shining,
it is placid and benign with a bright and smiling countenance.
Stately temples, set amidst sacred groves and graceful palms, lighten
the banks. On the broad steps of the bathing ghats are assembled
crowds of pious worshippers in clothes of every brilliant hue. The
river has an aspect of kindliness and geniality and life-givingness.
Its waters and rich silt have brought plenty to many a barren acre,
and the dwellers on its banks know well that it issues from the holy
Himalaya.

But the Ganges is not always in this gracious mood, and does not
always wear this kindly aspect. In the rainy season it is a thing of
terror. Overhead black, thundery clouds sweep on for days and
weeks together towards the m