wherever we look are butterflies innumerable, many
dull and unpretentious, but some of a brilliancy of colour that makes
us gasp with pleasure.

We may be pouring with perspiration, pestered by flies and
mosquitoes, and in constant dread of leeches. But we forget all such
annoyances in the joy of these wonders of the tropics, whether they
be trees or orchids, ferns or butterflies. And to see one of these
gorgeous insects alight in front of us, slowly raise and lower his
wings and turn himself about almost as if he were showing himself
off for our especial pleasure, compensates us for every worry his
fellows in the insect world may cause us.

As might be expected, in the steamy, dripping atmosphere ferns are
a predominating feature in the vegetation. Not less than two hundred
different kinds are found. The most noticeable are the tree ferns, of
which alone there are eight species. Their average height is about 20
feet, but plants of 40 and 50 feet are not uncommon. And with their
tall trunks and crown of immense graceful fronds they form a
striking feature in the forest, and in the moister valleys where they
attain their full luxuriance they may be seen in extensive groves as
well as in little groups. Four kinds of maidenhair, always light and
graceful and attractive, are found; and of ferns common to Europe,
_Osmunda regalis,_ the Royal fern of Europe, and the European
moonwort and alder's-tongue ferns. Then there is a fern which
attains to gigantic proportions, especially in the cool forests, where
its massive fronds grow to more than 5 yards in length and 3 in
breadth, with a spread over all, measuring from tip to tip of opposite
fronds, of 8 yards. One handsome climbing fern clothes the trunks of
tall trees; another which climbs on grasses and the smaller shrubs is
common; and another forms almost impenetrable thickets 15 or 20
feet high. Of the kinds which grow on rocks and trees the most
delicately beautiful are the filmy ferns, of which there are eight
kinds. The Irish filmy is the largest, covering the face of large rocks
under dense shade, its fronds growing to over a foot in length. Many
polypodiums and aspleniums grow gracefully on the rocks and trees
during the rainy season. One especially elegant polypodium growing
on the ground has fronds about 6 or 7 feet long, and sometimes as
much as 20 feet, and of proportionate width. Another conspicuous
fern is the bird's-nest fern with its large, massive fronds gr