er to strike the bargain, whilst a third crafty
Celestial lounges about the entrance to tout for custom, with a margin
on his prices for haggling which is high or low according to whether
the intending purchaser be American, European, half-caste, or native.

There is hardly a street without Chinese dealers, but their principal
centre is the _Rosario_, whilst the finest American and European
shops are to be found in the _Escolta_. [166]

In 1881 a great fire occurred in the _Escolta_, and since then
the class of property in that important thoroughfare has been much
improved. In October, 1885, a second serious fire took place in this
street, and on the site of the ruins there now stands a fine block of
buildings formerly occupied by the Central Post Office and Telegraph
Station, and a row of good shops in European style.

During the working hours were to be seen hundreds of smart Chinese
coolies, half-naked, running in all directions with loads, or driving
carts, whilst the natives dreamily sauntered along the streets,
following their numerous occupations with enviable tranquillity. In the
doorways here and there were native women squatting on the flag-stones,
picking lice from each other's heads, and serving a purchaser
between-times with cigars, betel-nut, and food, when occasion offered.

Certain small handicrafts are almost entirely taken up by the Chinese,
such as boot-making, furniture-making, small smith's-work and
casting, tin-working, tanning, dyeing, etc., whilst the natives are
occupied as silversmiths, engravers, saddlers, water-colour painters,
furniture-polishers, bookbinders, etc. A few years ago the apothecaries
were almost exclusively Germans; now the profession is shared with
natives, half-castes, and one British firm.

The thoroughfares were crowded with carriages during the whole day
drawn by pretty native ponies. The public conveyance regulations in
Spanish times were excellent. The rates for hiring were very moderate,
and were calculated by the time engaged. Incivility of drivers was
a thing almost unknown. Their patience was astonishing. They would,
if required, wait for the fare for hours together in a drenching rain
without a murmur. Having engaged a vehicle (in Manila or elsewhere)
it is usual to guide the driver by calling out to him each turn he has
to take. Thus, if he be required to go to the right--_mano_ (hand)
is the word used; if to the left--_silla_ (saddle) is shouted. This
custom