e intended for the villas of the environs, for
surely no home in this old town could house a bathroom. Where would the
hot water and cold water come from? And where would it go after you
opened the waste-pipe?

But there are sewers, or at least drains, on the hillside. Grasse has
progressed beyond the _gare-a-l'eau_ stage of municipal civilization.
Before your eyes is the evidence that you no longer have to listen for
that cry, and duck the pot or pail emptied from an upper window. Pipes,
with branches to the windows, come down the sides of the houses. They
are of generous size, as in cities of northern countries where much snow
lies on the roofs. Since wall-angles are many, the pipes generally find
a place in corners. They do not obtrude. They do not suggest zinc or
tin. They were painted a mud-gray color a long time ago.

After lunch, we strolled along the Boulevard du Jeu-de-Ballon, the
tramway street. In old French towns, the words boulevard and tramway are
generally anathema. They suggest the poor imitation of Paris, both in
architecture and animation, of a street outside the magic circle of the
unchanged which holds the charm of the town. But sometimes, in order to
come as near as possible to the center of population, the tramway
boulevard skirts the fortifications of the medieval city, or is built
upon their emplacement. It is this way at Grasse. One side of the
Boulevard du Jeu-de-Ballon is modern and commonplace. The other side
preserves in part the buildings of past ages. Here and there a bit of
tower remains. No side street breaks the line. You go down into the
city through an occasional arched passage.

We stopped for coffee at the Garden-Bar, on the modern side of the
boulevard. The curious hodge-podge opposite, which houses the Restaurant
du Cheval Blanc and the Cafe du Globe, had caught the Artist's eye. The
building, or group of buildings, is six stories high, with a sky-line
that reflects the range of mountains under which Grasse nestles. Windows
of different sizes, placed without symmetry or alignment, do not even
harmonize with the roof above them. Probably there was originally a
narrow house rising directly above the door of the Cheval Blanc. When
the structure was widened, upper floors or single rooms were built on _ad
libitum_. The windows give the clew to this evolution, for the wall has
been plastered and whitewashed uniformly to the width of over a hundred
feet, and the