ed at Signor Tomasi's. Throughout all Corsica,
except in garrison towns, there is hardly an inn. I met with a single
one, about eight miles from Corte. Before I was accustomed to the
Corsican hospitality, I sometimes forgot myself, and imagining I was in
a publick house, called for what I wanted, with the tone which one uses
in calling to the waiters at a tavern. I did so at Pino, asking for a
variety of things at once; when Signora Tomasi, perceiving my mistake,
looked in my face and smiled, saying with much calmness and good-nature,
"Una cosa dopo un altra, Signore. One thing after another, Sir."
In writing this Journal, I shall not tire my readers with relating the
occurrences of each particular day. It will be much more agreeable to
them, to have a free and continued account of what I saw or heard, most
worthy of observation.
For some time, I had very curious travelling, mostly on foot, and
attended by a couple of stout women, who carried my baggage upon their
heads. Every time that I prepared to set out from a village, I could not
help laughing, to see the good people eager to have my equipage in
order, and roaring out, "Le Donne, Le Donne. The Women, The Women."
I had full leisure and the best opportunities to observe every thing, in
my progress through the island. I was lodged sometimes in private
houses, sometimes in convents, being always well recommended from place
to place. The first convent in which I lay, was at Canari. It appeared a
little odd at first. But I soon learnt to repair to my dormitory as
naturally as if I had been a friar for seven years.
The convents were small decent buildings, suited to the sober ideas of
their pious inhabitants. The religious who devoutly endeavour to "walk
with GOD," are often treated with raillery by those whom pleasure or
business prevents from thinking of future and more exalted objects. A
little experience of the serenity and peace of mind to be found in
convents, would be of use to temper the fire of men of the world.
At Patrimonio I found the seat of a provincial magistracy. The chief
judge was there, and entertained me very well. Upon my arrival, the
captain of the guard came out, and demanded who I was? I replied
"Inglese English." He looked at me seriously, and then said in a tone
between regret and upbraiding, "Inglese, c'erano i nostri amici; ma non
le sono piu. The English. They were once our friends; but they are so no
more." I felt for my country, an
|