p in holiness; for the bedstead has
an elaborate crucifix carved at its head, and I shall sleep under its
immediate protection. On the slightest alarm, by merely throwing my
arms upward, I can lay hold on the cross, and nothing will be wanting
to the sense of security but faith in this material symbol of my
faith. I shall have saintly company, too. On the wall to the right is
a print of St. Christopher carrying the infant Christ over a river,
and a bishop, in full canonicals, waiting on the other side, with
outstretched arms, to receive him; on the left, is a picture of
St. Antony, of Padua, preaching to the fishes. Religion is truly part
and parcel of this people's every day life; and the reality of their
devotion, and the falsehood and frivolity of many of its objects, make
a contrast truly painful to me."

Old Moodie, the muleteer, and the servants, having seen after their
horses and mules, now came straggling into this hall, common to all
the inmates of the house. Here they accommodated themselves with such
seats as they could find, or contrive out of the baggage; and one of
L'Isle's servants produced the rabbits and partridges purchased on the
road, with some other provisions brought from Elvas. These he gave to
the woman of the house to cook for the travelers, and no objection was
started as to cooking flesh, that other people might commit the sin of
eating it on a fast day. The whole party sat in a large semi-circle
around the fire, conversing and watching the cooking of their supper;
but no sooner did the savory fumes diffuse themselves through the
building than another personage joined them. A stout pig, evidently a
denizen of the house, came trotting and grunting out of the stable,
and pushed his way into the interior of the social circle. Though he
received some rude buffets, he persisted in keeping within it, until,
trenching on Lady Mabel's precincts, she made such an application of
her riding-wand that he was glad to seek refuge again among his
four-legged companions.

"It would seem," Lady Mabel remarked, "that these _Vendas_ are
caravansaries, providing only shelter for the traveler, who is
expected to bring his own food."

"This is so true, that it is a blessing there are no game laws in the
peninsula," said L'Isle. "The traveler would often starve at the inn
but for the game purchased on the road. And it is well to travel
prepared to shoot _one's own_ game, as you are perpetually threatened
with fa