utting
a small round hole on the top of the ham, as at _c_, and with a sharp
knife enlarging that by cutting successive thin circles: this preserves
the gravy, and keeps the meat moist. The last and most saving way is, to
begin at the hock end, which many are most fond of, and proceed onwards.
Ham that is used for pies, &c. should be cut from the under side, first
taking off a thick slice.----SUCKING PIG. The cook usually divides the
body before it is sent to table, and garnishes the dish with the jaws
and ears. The first thing is, to separate a shoulder from the carcase on
one side, and then the leg, according to the direction given by the
dotted line _a_, _b_, _c_. The ribs are then to be divided into about
two helpings, and an ear or jaw presented with them, and plenty of
sauce. The joints may either be divided into two each, or pieces may be
cut from them. The ribs are reckoned the finest part, but some people
prefer the neck end, between the shoulders.----GOOSE. Cut off the apron
in the circular line _a_, _b_, _c_, and pour into the body a glass of
port wine, and a large tea-spoonful of mustard, first mixed at the
sideboard. Turn the neck end of the goose towards you, and cut the whole
breast in long slices from one wing to another; but only remove them as
you help each person, unless the company is so large as to require the
legs likewise. This way gives more prime bits than by making wings. Take
off the leg, by putting the fork into the small end of the bone,
pressing it to the body; and having passed the knife at _d_, turn the
leg back, and if a young bird, it will easily separate. To take off the
wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close
to the body; then put in the knife at _d_, and divide the joint, taking
it down in the direction _d_, _e_. Nothing but practice will enable
people to hit the joint dexterously. When the leg and wing of one side
are done, go on to the other; but it is not often necessary to cut up
the whole goose, unless the company be very large. There are two side
bones by the wing, which may be cut off; as likewise the back and lower
side bones: but the best pieces are the breast and the thighs, after
being divided from the drum-sticks.----HARE. The best way of cutting it
up is, to put the point of the knife under the shoulder at _a_, and so
cut all the way down to the rump, on one side of the back-bone, in the
line _a_, _b_. Do the same on the other side, so that