before it is little more than half ready, besides losing
the pale brown colour which is the beauty of roast meat. From ten to
fourteen inches is the usual distance at which it is put from the grate,
when first laid down; and afterwards it should be brought nearer by
degrees. If the joint is thicker at one end than the other, lay the spit
slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire. When the article is
thin and tender, the fire should be small and brisk; but for a large
joint the fire should be strong, and equally good in every part of the
grate, or the meat cannot be equally roasted, nor possess that uniform
colour which is the test of good cooking. Give the fire a good stirring
before the meat is laid down, keep it clear at the bottom, and take care
that there are no smoky coals in the front, to spoil the look and taste
of the meat. If a jack be used, it should be carefully oiled and kept
clean, and covered from the dust, or it will never go well. The dripping
pan should be placed at such a distance from the fire as just to catch
the drippings; if it be too near, the ashes will fall into it, and spoil
the drippings. If too far from the fire to catch them, the drippings
will not only be lost, but the meat will be blackened, and spoiled by
the fetid smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live
cinders. The meat must be well basted, to keep it moist. When it does
not supply dripping enough for this purpose, add some that has been
saved on former occasions, and nicely prepared, which answers as well or
better than butter. Meat should not be sprinkled with salt till nearly
done, as it tends to draw out the gravy. Basting with a little salt and
water, when the meat is first laid down, is often done, but the
practice is not good. Where the fat is very fine and delicate, it is
best to cover it with writing paper to prevent its wasting; but in
general it is as well to expose it to the action of the fire, and let it
fall into the dripping pan. Half an hour before the meat is done,
prepare some gravy if necessary; and just before it is taken up, put it
nearer the fire to brown it. If it is to be frothed, baste and dredge it
carefully with flour. The common fault is that of using too much flour;
the meat should have a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance
of being covered with a paste; and those who are particular about the
froth, use butter instead of dripping. When the roast is quite done, it
is best to t