did, he took his revenge in the week.

As we did not work, at what did we play? Perhaps there was a sick
comrade to visit in the great hospital; and we paced the long corridors,
and stepped lightly through the lofty wards to his bedside. Or, if he
were convalescent, we sought him out, among many others, in the open
square, with its broad grass-plots and young trees, where, in his grey
loose gown, he smoked a morning pipe. Or we went to church, I, with
others, to the Evangelical Chapel near the Augustine Platz. There, among
a closely-pressed throng, we heard admirable discourses (and not too
long, the whole service being concluded in an hour), and heard much
beautiful music; but, to my mind, there were too many tawdry ornaments in
this place of worship--too many lamps about the altar; and the
altar-piece itself--a gigantic figure of the Saviour on the Cross, said
to be by Albert Durer--seemed to be out of place.

It was lawful in Vienna to bathe on Sunday; and this we did, with great
delight, in the public baths upon the Danube. Or we strolled about the
Glacis; attended the miniature review in the Hof-Burg; wandered out as
far as Am-Spitz, by the long wooden bridge over the broad and melancholy
river; or, what was better, sauntered in some one of the beautiful
gardens of the Austrian nobility,--those of Schwargenberg, Lichtenstein,
or in the Belvidere--thrown open to the public, not only on Sunday, but
on every day in the week.

As the day waned, music burst forth in many strains at once. There was a
knot of artisans in our back room, who were learning the entire "Czar and
Zimmerman," and who were very vigorous about this hour. At seven, the
theatres opened their doors, with something of our own rush and press,
although there was a guard-house, and a whole company of grenadiers in
the ante-room; but, once in the interior, all was order and decorum.
There was, of course, a difference in tone and character between the city
and the suburban theatres, inasmuch as the ices and coffee of the court
playhouses found their parallel in the beer and hot sausages of the
Joseph Stadt and An-der-Wieden; but the performances of all rarely
occupied more than two, and never exceeded three hours; and there was an
amount of quiet and propriety manifested during the entertainment, which
said something for the authorities, but more for the people.

As the night deepened, the ball-rooms and dancing-booths of Vienna,--the
Sperl's, D