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sm. There are two principal types of molluscs which yield true pearls in commercial quantities. The best known of the first type is the so-called pearl oyster (_Meleagrina margaritifera_). The pearl mussel of fresh water streams is of the second type (_Unio margaritifera_). Other species of molluscs having pearly linings to their shells may produce pearls, but most of the pearls of commerce come from one or the other of the two varieties mentioned. STRUCTURE OF PEARL. The structure and material of the true pearl must be first understood in order to understand the underlying reasons for the remarkable beauty of this gem. Pearls are composed partly of the mineral substance calcium carbonate (chemically the same as marble) and partly of a tough, horny substance of organic nature called conchiolin. The shell of the pearl-bearing mollusc is also composed of these two substances. Calcium carbonate may crystallize in either of two forms, calcite or aragonite. In marble we have calcite. In the outer portions of the shell of the pearl oyster the calcium carbonate is in the form of calcite, but in the inner nacreous lining and in the pearl itself the mineral is present as aragonite. This is deposited by the mollusc in very thin crystalline layers in the horny layers of conchiolin, so that the lining of the shell is built of approximately parallel layers of mineral and of animal substance. In the normal shell this is all that takes place, but in the case of a mollusc whose interior is invaded by any small source of irritation, such as a borer, or a grain of sand, or other bit of foreign material, a process of alternate deposit of conchiolin and of aragonite goes on upon the invading matter, thus forming a pearl. The pearl is built in layers like an onion. In shape it may be spherical, or pear-shaped, or button-shaped or of any less regular shape than these. The regular shapes are more highly valued. The spherical shape is of greatest value, other things being equal. Next comes the drop or pear shape, then the button shape, and after these the host of irregular shapes known to the jeweler as "baroques." The river man who gathers mussels calls these odd-shaped pearls "slugs." Let us now attempt to understand how the beautiful luster and iridescence of the pearl are related to the layer-like structure of the gem. In the first place, it should be understood that both conchiolin and aragonite are translucent, that is, they pass li
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