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older is rested in one of a series of holes in what is called a "_ginpeg_" resting in the work-bench near a metal lap, and the stone is pressed upon the rapidly rotating surface of the lap, which is charged with diamond dust or carborundum, according to the hardness of the material to be facetted. A flat facet is thus ground upon the stone. By rotating the holder a series of facets, all in the same set, is produced. The holder is then changed to a new position on the ginpeg and another set of facets laid upon the stone. Thus as many as four or five tiers or sets of facets may be applied to one side, say the top of the stone. The latter is then removed from the holder and cemented to it again, this time with the bottom exposed, and several sets of facets applied. The stone is now _cut_ but not _polished_. The facets are flat, but have a rough ground-glass like surface. The polishing is usually done by workers who do not cut stones, but who do nothing but polish them. In small shops, however, the same lapidary performs all the parts of the work. POLISHING. The polishing of stones, whether cabochon or facetted, is accomplished by the use of very finely powdered abrasives such as corundum powder, tripoli, pumice, putty powder, etc. Each gem material requires special treatment to obtain the best results. It is here that most of the trade secrets apply. The troubles of the lapidary in getting the keen polish that is so much admired on fine gems are many. In general, the polishing powder should not be quite as hard as the material to be polished, else it may grind rather than polish. The material should be used with water or oil to give it a creamy consistency. It should be backed by laps of different materials for different purposes. Thus, when backed by a fairly hard metal even tripoli, although much softer, will polish sapphire. On a lap of wood, tripoli would fail to polish hard materials, but would polish amethyst or other quartz gem. A change of speed of the lap, too, changes the effect of the polishing material. I have seen a lapidary, who was having no success at polishing an emerald, get very good results by using a stick as a brake and slowing down his lap. The polishing material must be of very uniform size, preferably water floated or oil floated, to give good results. The lap must be kept flat and true and the stone must be properly held, or the flatness of the facets, upon which brilliancy depends in part
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