ived while on this rapid journey across
half of Europe in little more than 24 hours, was that in Belgium things
looked slip-shod, in Germany organized, and in Russia potential.

The hotel I found to be first-class and up-to-date in every way, while
prices were moderate (six roubles a day) and the cuisine excellent.

The dining room was a perfect blaze, being illuminated by more than
1,000 electric lights, let into the walls and screened by round, opaque
glasses, so that the effect was something like that of so many
bull's-eye lanterns.

As soon as I had been shown to my room, my passport was again demanded
by a police agent, and again taken off to be vised. I subsequently
learnt that _everyone_ in Russia--not only travellers but also all
Russians--must have a passport, without which it is impossible to get
even a night's lodging, so that the entire population comes directly and
constantly under the eye of the police. This must at times be rather
galling, but on the other hand, it is a great protection, especially to
strangers.

_17th October._--Warsaw is an interesting town for many reasons, also,
it is well laid out, having several large boulevards flanked with grass
and trees, though the back streets are dirty, and badly paved with
large, uneven blocks of stone.

Many beautiful churches raise their lofty spires and oriental domes,
painted green or gilded with gold and surmounted by crosses, for
Russians are of the Greek faith. The principal streets were crowded with
fine soldiers in gay uniforms, the slums were packed with repulsive
looking Jews, who, in long black coats and little peaked caps, sneaked
about as though in constant dread of persecution, their hooked noses,
pale faces and black beards giving them that furtive and crafty
appearance for which the Polish Jew is so well known. Objects of pity,
their history is written on their faces.

The horses, though fine-drawn, looked strong, well-bred and good goers.

Cigars were very dear--about eighteen pence for a medium one--and each
separate cigar was sold in a kind of glass or gelatine air-tight tube.

_18th October._--Left Warsaw at 9.30 a.m., and the train was so crowded
that although holding a first-class ticket, I was obliged to travel in a
second-class sleeping-car, in company with a Pole, a Russian, and a
German and his little three-year-old daughter, to say nothing of piles
of luggage. Passed through fine open country, quite flat, with woods of
fir