that at the exorbitant price of one
rouble and a quarter, say half-a-crown, the bottle, which was because of
excessive import duty. We crossed many streams, the waters of which were
clear, although generally frozen. The Buriat population of this region
looked of a low type, fairly large in stature but hideous, and generally
badly marked with small-pox. Saw one boy on skates. Bought postage
stamps for 40 kopeks at a small station, but had to give another 10
kopeks as commission. Saw a Mongol with pigtail at one of the stations,
which showed that we were approaching the borders of the Chinese Empire.

_31st October._--Lovely day, air like champagne. Descended mountains at
a good pace, having two engines, one in front and one behind. Were now
in country of the nomad Bactrians. No cultivation. Saw mobs of ponies
and flocks of black and white sheep, cattle much resembling Scotch
breeds, having long, thick hair, and a good many two-humped camels.
Observed one man shooting with a gun, another riding with bow and arrows
slung on his back. The houses, or wigwams, were square in shape with
arching roofs, and looked to be constructed of wicker-work and skins. In
many places noticed irregular, flat stones set up on edge and varying in
height from three to six feet, forming circles about twenty feet in
diameter, in which, presumably, were graves.

At Buriatskaia, which means capital of the Buriats, were two typical
Mongols with pigtails and clad in skins. One of them was wearing an
official tassel attached to his skin hood, but no official button to
show his rank. To-day saw a flock of larks, a hawk and a magpie. From
daylight till dark, during which time we travelled a distance of perhaps
300 miles, there was no vestige of either trees, shrubs, banks or
hedges, and no cultivation, only the rolling grass lands slightly
whitened with snow. Reached the town of Manchuria, which is on the
Manchurian frontier, at 8 p.m., and changed one of the 1st Class cars,
something having gone wrong with the axles.

_1st November._--A bright morning, but more snow on ground and not so
cold. Saw many Mongols and Chinese. The country was hilly and sparsely
wooded with silver birch and bushes. At Irekte the Russians have quite a
colony, and the line apparently has a branch running South. From Irekte
to Boukhedou, a distance of about 25 miles, the line passed over some
very steep hills. Two engines to haul us up, and coming down the descent
was made i