hich wound in and out a country gradually
becoming more undulating.

It was not a great while before we discovered that a sudden shower, so
common in tropical countries, was upon us, and in all probability we had
before us the pleasant prospect of a drenching.

We were not wrong in our guess, for the water, ere many moments had
passed, came down in torrents. With one hand I held my umbrella and so
protected my head and shoulders, and with the other guided my mule.

Before the rain ceased we came to a house where Vincent informed me we
would find our quarters until morning.

Three women sat in front of the house, under shelter of the projecting
roof, one smoking a cigarette and the other two shelling corn. A hammock
was hung here, and two chairs, a bench, and a table completed the
furniture of this outside room.

Mules, pigs, dogs, and chickens roamed at will in the yard directly in
front, which was muddy and shiny, and reeking with filth.

My heart sank lower than ever within me, but summoning up what I could
of my resolution to bear uncomplainingly whatever came, I got off my
mule, stiff, lame, wet, and cold, and sat down in the hammock,
wondering how much more I could endure.

We had not seen our servants since morning, and were becoming somewhat
anxious, remembering the river and the rain, but still found consolation
in the thought that the heavily laden pack mules could not travel as
fast as we had done.

Hardly had we settled ourselves under this shelter when a man rode up,
apparently "the lord of the manor." He was about fifty years of age,
whiter than the women, and was getting a horrible _goitre_, an
affliction that one of the girls, his daughter, was also suffering from,
and which seemed quite a common one in the vicinity.

A few words of explanation from the pretty cigarette-smoker, who, though
not his wife, seemed to be the mistress of the household, apparently
satisfied him, and he subsequently took our presence as a matter of
course.

He seated himself in the chair by the table, his supper of black beans,
meat, cheese, and _tortillas_ was brought and dispatched without the
aid of either knife or fork, and then he turned his attention to our
entertainment.

Notwithstanding the unwelcome sights and odors, we were becoming very
hungry again, and as our men still abstained from putting in an
appearance, we were more than glad to take the eggs, _tortillas_, and
coffee given us. True it is that ofte