and asses, for we were now become quite impatient to visit
the hallowed and celebrated convent, _De Neustra Senora_; a convent, to
which pilgrims resort from the furthest parts of Europe, some bearing,
by way of penance, heavy bars of iron on their backs, others cutting and
slashing their naked bodies with wire cords, or crawling to it on
all-fours, like the beasts of the field, to obtain forgiveness of their
sins, by the intercession of _our Lady of Montserrat_.

When we had ascended a steep and rugged road, about one hour, and where
there was width enough, and the precipices not too alarming, to give our
eyes the utmost liberty, we had an earnest of what we were to expect
above, as well as the extensive view below; our impatience to see more
was encreased by what we had already seen; the majestic convent opened
to us a view of her venerable walls; some of the hermits' cells peeped
over the broken precipices still higher; while we, glutted with
astonishment, and made giddy with delight and amazement, looked up at
all with a reverential awe, towards that God who raised the
PILES, and the holy men who dwell among them.--Yes, Sir,--we
caught the holy flame; and I hope we came down better, if not wiser,
than we went up. After ascending full two hours and a half more, we
arrived on a flat part on the side, and about the middle of the
mountain, on which the convent is built; but even that flat was made so
by art, and at a prodigious expence. Here, however, was width enough to
look securely about us; and, good God! what an extensive field of earth,
air, and sea did it open! the ancient towers, which at first attracted
my notice near _Colbaton_, were dwindled into pig-sties upon a
_mounticule_. At length, and a great length it was, we arrived at the
gates of the _Sanctuary_; on each side of which, on high pedestals,
stand the enormous statues of two saints; and nearly opposite, on the
base of a rock, which leans in a frightful manner over the buildings,
and threatens destruction to all below, a great number of human sculls
are fixed in the form of a cross. Within the gate is a square cloister,
hung round with paintings of the miracles performed by the Holy Virgin,
with votive offerings, &c. It was Advent week, when none of the monks
quit their apartments, but one whose weekly duty it was to attend the
call of strangers; nor did the whole community afford but a single
member (_pere tendre_, a _Fleming_) who could speak French. I