of _olla_, was preparing, I went into the kitchen, where
the smell of the rancid oil with which it was dressed, would have dined
two or three men of moderate or tender stomachs; nor had he any other
dish. There was behind his coach a great quantity of bedding,
bed-steads, &c. so you will perceive he travelled _comme il faut_. His
livery servants were numerous, and had on very short livery coats, with
large sleeves, and still shorter waists. After he had eat a dinner,
enough to poison a pack of hounds, he sat off in great pomp for
_Barcelona_, a city I passed the next day with infinite pleasure,
without entering its inhospitable gates; which I could not have done,
had not _Mons. Anglois_ saved me that mortification by getting my _passa
porte refreshed_. I confess, Sir, that while I passed under the
fortifications of that city, which the high road made necessary, I felt,
I knew not why, a terror about me, that my frame is in general a
stranger to; and rather risqued two hours' night travelling, bad and
dangerous as the roads were, than sleep within four leagues of it; so
that it was ten o'clock before we got to _Martereau_, a little city by
the sea side, where we had lodged on our way to _Barcelona_. The next
day, we proceeded on the same delightful sea coast we had before passed,
and through the same rich villages, on our way to _Girone_, _Figuiere_,
&c. and avoided that horrid _posada_ where the Frenchman died, by lying
at a worse house, but better people: but having bought a brace of
partridges, and some _red fish_ on the road, we fared sumptuously,
except in beds, which were straw mattrasses, very hard, and the room
full of wet Indian corn; but we were no sooner out of our _posada_, than
the climate and the beautiful country made ample amends for the town and
_posada_ grievances.

It is contrary to the law of Spain to bring more than a certain quantity
of Spanish gold or silver out of the kingdom, and I had near an hundred
pounds in gold _duras_, about the size of our quarter guineas. I
endeavoured to change them at _Figuiere_, but I found some very artful,
I may say roguish, schemes laid, to defraud me, by a pretended
difficulty to get French money, and therefore determined to proceed with
it to _Jonquiere_, the last village, where it was not probable I could
find so much French money. I therefore had a very large French _queue_
made up, within which the greater part of my Spanish gold was bound; and
as the weight _