ble people. This is the weather point of Upolu, and after leaving
Lepa| the boat has a clear run of over sixty miles before the glorious
trades to the lee end of the island--that is, unless a stay is made at
the populous towns of Falealilli, Sa|fata, Lafa|ga, and Falelatai,
on the southern coast. The scenery along this part of the island is
enchanting, but sudden squalls at night-time are sometimes frequent,
from December to March, and 'tis always advisable to run into a port at
sunset.

Two miles off the lee end of Upolu is the low-lying island of Manono,
which is, however, enclosed in the Upolu barrier reef. It is only about
three miles in circumference, exceedingly fertile, and is the most
important place in the group, owing to the political influence wielded
by the chiefly families who have always made it their home. A mile from
Manono, and in the centre of the deep strait separating Upolu from
Savaii, is a curiously picturesque spot, an island named Apolima.[17] It
is an extinct crater, but has a narrow passage on the north side, and is
inhabited by about fifty people, who are delighted to see any _papalagi_
(foreigner) who is venturesome enough to make a landing there.

Savaii is distant about ten miles from Upolu. Its coast is for the most
part _itu papa_--i.e., iron bound--but there are five populous towns
there--Palaulae, Salealua, Asaua, Matautu, and Safune. After making the
round of Savaii, the boat has to make back to Manono, and then can
proceed inside the reef all the way to Apia, making stoppages at the
many minor villages which stud the shore at intervals of every few
miles.

These _malaga_ by boat along the coast or from one island to another are
much in favour with many of the white residents of Samoa, who find their
life in Apia very monotonous. European ladies frequently accompany their
husbands, and sometimes quite a large party is made up. More than
five-and-twenty years ago, when the writer was gaining his first
experiences of Samoan life, it was his good fortune to be one of such a
party, and a right merry time he had of it among the natives; for in
those days, although there was party warfare occasionally, the group
was free from the savage hatreds and dissensions--largely fomented by
the interference and intrigues of unscrupulous traders and incapable
officials--which for the past ten or twelve years have made it
notorious.

In travelling in Samoa one need not always rely upon native hospit