cissors, combs, &c., and powder, caps, and a bag of
No. 3 shot for pigeon shooting. Now, this seems a lot of articles for a
man to take on a short Samoan _malaga_ (journey), but it is not, and for
the L50 which it may cost for such an outfit (exclusive of the boat and
crew's wages) the traveller will see more of the people and their mode
of life, be more hospitably received, and spend a pleasanter time than
if he were cruising about in a 1,000-ton yacht. The wages or boatmen and
native sailors in Samoa are usually $15.00 per month, but many will
gladly go on a _malaga_ (the general acceptance of the word is a
pleasure trip) for much less, for there is but little work, and much
eating and drinking. But, as sailors, the Samoans are a wretched lot,
and the local living Savage Islanders, as the natives of Niue Island are
called, are far better, especially if there is any wind or a beat to
windward in a heavy sea. These Savage Island "boys" can always be
obtained in Apia. They are good seamen and very willing to work; but
they have to be fed entirely by their white employer, for the Samoans
seldom make a present of food to a crew of Niue boys, for whom they
profess a contempt and designate _au puaa_--_i.e._, pigs.

The Samoan Group consists of five islands, trending from west by north
to east by south. The two largest are Upolu and Savaii. Tutuila, and the
Manua Group of three islands are too far to the windward to attempt in a
small boat against the south-east trades. And it would take quite three
months to visit the principal villages on the two large islands, staying
a few days at each place.

The best plan is to make to windward along the coast of Upolu after
leaving Apia. A large boat cannot be taken all the way inside the reef,
owing to the many coral patches which, at low tide, render this course
impracticable. The first place of any importance is Saluafata, fifteen
miles from Apia (I must mention that Apia is in the centre of Upolu, and
on the north side), then Falifa|, an exquisitely pretty place, and
then Fa|goloa Bay and village, eight miles further on. This is the
deepest indentation in Samoa, except the famous Pa|go Pa|go Harbour
on Tutuila, and the scenery is very beautiful. After leaving Fa|goloa,
the open sea has to be taken, for there is now no barrier reef for ten
miles, where it begins at Samusu village, to the towns of Aleipata and
Lepa|, two of the best in the group, and inhabited by cleanly and
hospita