: This was written in January, 1853.--The bale may be roughly
estimated at 450 lbs.]

[Footnote U: This hotel has long since been re-opened.]

[Footnote V: All large cities in America must of necessity be
democratic.]

[Footnote W: I have since heard that the Charleston authorities allow
the captains of vessels to keep their coloured crew on board, under
penalty of a heavy fine in case they land.]

CHAPTER XII.

_The Queen of the Antilles_.

It was a lovely morning, not a cloud in the sky; the harbour was as
smooth as a mirror, and bright with the rays of a sun which had reached
that height at which--in tropical climates--it gilds and gladdens the
scene without scorching the spectator; the quay was lined with ships
loading and unloading; small boats were flying about in every direction;
all around was gay and fresh, but the filthy steamer was still beneath
me. I lost no time in calling a skiff alongside; then, shaking the dust
from off my feet, I was soon pulling away for the shore.

As a matter of course, the Custom-house is the landing-place, and the
great object of search seems to be for Filibustero papers, or books
which advocate that cause. Having passed this ordeal, you take your
first drive in the national vehicle of the island, which rejoices in the
appellation of a "Volante," a name given it, I suppose, in bitter
sarcasm; a "Tortugante" would have been far more appropriate, inasmuch
as the pace resembles that of a tortoise far more than that of a bird. I
may here as well describe one of the best, of which, in spite of its gay
appearance, I feel sure the bare sight would have broken the heart of
"Humanity Dick of Galway."

From the point of the shaft to the axle of the wheel measures fifteen
feet, and as the wheel varies in diameter from six to seven feet, it of
course extends three feet beyond the axle. The body is something like a
swell private cab, the leather at the back being moveable, so as to
admit air, and a curtain is fitted in front joining the head of the cab
and the splash-board, for the sake of shade, if needed; this body is
suspended on strong leather springs, attached to the axle at one end,
and to a strengthening-piece across the shafts, seven and a half feet
distance from the axle, at the other. The point of the shaft is fitted
with rings, by which it hangs on the back-pad of the horse, whose head
necessarily extends about four feet beyond; thus you will observe, that
from the