ro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in
Cetinje

CHAPTER IV

Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
departure for Podgorica

CHAPTER V

The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The
Vizier bridge--Old war-marks--First and last impressions of
Podgorica

CHAPTER VI

Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The
prison and its inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The
modern town--The market and the armed buyers--The
Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin methods of doing
business

CHAPTER VII

Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and business--His part in Montenegrin
history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The Death
Dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a
meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea

CHAPTER VIII

Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica

CHAPTER IX

Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are
delayed by contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We
make the acquaintance of Marko Ivankovic--A story concerning
him--We shoot together--An episode on a lake--Vaccination--The
Turkish inhabitants

CHAPTER X

We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer
much from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass
the Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious
troubles--The town and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding,
Yes and No--We return to Rijeka by steamer--The beauties
of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's return, when
the fatted calf is _not_ killed

CHAPTER XI

Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
d'heure_--Arrival in Kolasin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
of Good Ho