s, flock to
the town with cattle and sheep and field produce. Rifles are usually
carried when going on a long journey, particularly in the vicinity of
Albania. This is partly as a sign of allegiance to their Prince, but
chiefly because Montenegro stands ever before a sudden mobilisation.
Should the soldier peasant hear the alarm, he must make his way at
once for the rendezvous as speedily as possible, without detour.
Further, hundreds of armed Albanians from the borders are always in
their midst, as was the case to-day.

Rijeka is a very busy little place, being the half-way village between
the capital and Podgorica, and is still more important as the
starting-point of the little steamer which plies twice weekly down the
lake to Scutari. The river runs between lovely green hills rising
straight from its banks, wooded and luxuriant, reminding one not a
little of the Thames at Cookham.

The Prince has a small palace just beyond the town, and spends the
coldest winter months here, where he escapes the rigours of the
climate in Cetinje. About half-an-hour's walk is the ancient fortress
of Obod, famed in history as the site of the first printing-press
(destroyed very soon by the Turks) in the Balkans, and indeed one of
the first in the world, for Caxton was only a few years ahead. The
fact speaks for the ever forward striving spirit which has animated
Montenegro's rulers since its very foundation, and which only the
rigours of pitiless warfare have hindered.

On leaving the pretty little township, we had considerable difficulty
in forcing our way through the flocks which continually blocked the
road. All the way we ploughed through herds of cattle and stampeding
sheep and goats, much to the disgust of their shepherds. These men,
chiefly vicious-looking Albanians, with loosely-slung rifle, and round
their waist a bandolier of cartridges, lend a wildness to the lonely
road which is likely to mislead the new-comer; and should one of them
empty his revolver light-heartedly in the air, to be answered by
another some distance away, the impression is considerably heightened.

The road climbs to a good height immediately and commands a fine view
of the valley with the little river winding in and out. In winter the
effect is that of a great flood, for everywhere partially submerged
trees and bushes show above the water. But in reality it was only a
natural course of events, for in summer the water recedes and leaves
great fields