apher and translator, he kept up his
intellectuality till the last, and the end of his interesting life did
not come until he reached his 94th year. In 1905 he published a
translation of Leopardi's poems. Between us arose a much greater
intimacy than the ordinary intimacy of business, and his friendship,
through a long series of years, I enjoyed and highly valued.
[Sir Theodore Martin: martin.jpg]
Between the two periods of the Amalgamation control I sandwiched a
delightful holiday, and in the autumn of 1899, after the conclusion of
the great Ballinasloe Fair, travelled east as far as Constantinople. Were
this a book of travel (which it is not) a chapter might be devoted to
that trip. But the cobbler must stick to his last, though a word or two
may, perhaps, be allowed on the subject, if only by way of variety.
My companions on this interesting tour were my good friends F. K. and H.
H. We went by sea from Southampton to Genoa, where we stayed two days to
enjoy the sunshine and colour; its steep, picturesque and narrow streets,
and its beautiful old palaces. Then we visited Milan and Venice. At
Venice we spent several days, charmed with its beauty. From Trieste we
took an Austrian Lloyd steamer, the _Espero_, to Constantinople. At
Patras we left the steamer to rejoin it at Piraeus, wending our way by
rail along the Gulf of Corinth to Athens, in which classical city we
stayed the night. Messrs. Gaze and Sons had ordered their guide (or
dragoman as he was called) to meet us and devote himself to our service.
The next morning at 7 o'clock, he called for us at our hotel, and from
that hour till noon, under his guidance, we visited the temples and
monuments of ancient Athens, and inspected the modern city also. In the
afternoon we drove or rather ploughed our way from Athens to Piraeus
(five miles) along the worst road I ever traversed, not excepting the
streets of Constantinople. We found the harbour gay with music, flags
and bunting, in honour of a great Russian Admiral who was leaving his
ship to journey by ours to Constantinople. His officers bade him
respectful farewells on the deck of our steamer, and he ceremoniously
kissed them each and all.
On the twenty-second day after leaving home, at six o'clock in the
morning, we were aroused in our berths and informed that we had arrived
at Constantinople. The morning, unfortunately, was dull, and our first
view of the Ottoman city, therefore, a little obsc
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