indeed, toward the sea, especially on the east side, the country
is still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy soil, as it is much lower
than Annamooka, and its surrounding isles. But toward the middle of the
island the soil is better; and the marks of considerable population, and
of improved cultivation, were very conspicuous. For we met here with
very large plantations, inclosed in such a manner that the fences,
running parallel to each other, form fine spacious public roads, that
would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been
carried to the greatest perfection. We observed large spots covered with
the paper mulberry-trees; and the plantations, in general, were well
stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the
island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian
corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four or
five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of
grass before it; and I take it for granted, the people resort thither on
certain public occasions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount, two or
three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it stood four or five small
huts, in which the natives told us the bodies of some of their principal
people had been interred.

The island is not above seven miles long, and in some places not above
two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the
trade-wind, has a reef running to a considerable breadth from it, on
which the sea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this
reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile distant;
and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then
partly dry from the one island to the other. The shore itself is either
a coral rock, six or seven feet high, or a sandy beach, but higher than
the west side, which in general is not more than three or four feet from
the level of the sea, with a sandy beach its whole length.

When I returned from my excursion into the country, and went on board
to dinner, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship's stern. In
this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo during my
last voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that
island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity, by which, as I have
mentioned in my journal,[162] he was so remarkably distinguished at that
time; nor could I, by any entreaties, prevail upon