y, by whatever direction, by land or by sea, one
enters, is one of magical beauty. Whether one enters from the
Mediterranean or from the Adriatic, or by means of the Mont Cenis, the
Simplon, or the St. Gothard pass, through the sublime mountain wall,
each gateway is marvellous in attraction. Approaching from the seas that
completely surround Italy except on one side, the almost undreamed-of
splendor of Naples, Genoa, and Venice, as seen from off the shore,
exceeds all power of painter or poet to reproduce. The precipitous coast
of Sicily; the picturesque city of Palermo; the wonderful ruins of the
Greek theatre on the heights in Taormina,--all enchant the tourist. To
anchor off Naples, in the beautiful bay, serves the purpose of an hotel
out at sea. It is like living in Venice--only more so! By the little
rowboats one may go, at any moment, to Naples, and it is more delightful
than passing the days in the city itself. For at night as one strolls
or sits on deck what a picture is before the eye! All Naples, on her
semicircular shores, with her terraced heights rising above, defined in
a blaze of electric lights! Genoa, _la Superba_, is still more
magnificent when seen from the sea; and Venice, rising dream-enchanted,
completes the wonders of the approach by water.

As the new Italy has not yet achieved any homogeneous unity, Naples,
Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan differ in their characteristics to
such a degree that no general interpretation of the residents of any one
would appropriately describe those of another. Paris and Vienna hardly
differ as much as do Milan and Rome; and Venice, Florence, and Rome,
each rich in art treasures, have little else in common. Certain
characteristics of each of the large cities reveal themselves
prominently, even to a superficial observer. Milan, as has been said, is
a centre of activity, as Florence is of culture and accomplishments.
Florence has the largest and the most choice circulating library in all
Italy and one that ranks among the best on the Continent. Her galleries
are treasure stores of art, and her social life is unsurpassed--one
might almost say unrivalled--in its fine quality. Music, philosophic
culture, learning in all lines of research characterize Florentine
society. Education has always been regarded in Florence as a matter of
prime importance, and when the government grant of funds is insufficient
the sum is made up by private contributions, so that the _Scuola del