or the gallant grimy tugs, which are
pulling and straining at the taut ropes till they look like bars of iron
lying between us and them. They churn the water to a fury, and pour
forth volumes of black smoke; inch by inch we feel the ship moving out;
her stern is dragged up-stream, so that when she is finally swung clear,
her bows are pointing seaward and she is ready to go. It is an exciting
moment when the ropes are cast off, and there is a great deal of running
about and shouting, and then our own engines begin gently but powerfully
to do their work. The screws beneath the stern revolve and we have
started on our long, long voyage!

[Illustration: SHE IS ON THE POINT OF LEAVING HER COUNTRY. PERHAPS FOR
EVER.]

There are no waves in the river; only those who are very nervous will
think about being ill yet awhile, and this is a good chance to examine
the great ship which is to be our home for some time.

There is plenty of room to walk about on the decks or to play games when
we reach a more summer-like climate. There are many rooms where we can
shelter in the wet and cold weather, a great lounge with writing-tables,
and a smoking-room--and there is no house on earth kept so spotlessly
clean as a ship!

[Illustration: THE CAPTAIN.]

When we go down to dinner we sit on chairs that swing round like office
chairs, only they are fixed into the floor, and as they only swing one
way, there are some funny scenes till people get used to them. We have
hardly taken our seats when a very magnificent man with a white
waistcoat and gold shoulder straps and much gold lace on his uniform
comes and sits down too, and smiles and bows to everyone. This is the
captain, and we must be more distinguished than we guessed, for we have
been put at his table, where the honoured passengers usually find seats.
Though this captain has such a kindly smile, a captain can be very
terrifying indeed; he is king in his ship, and has absolute authority;
his word is law, as, of course, it must be, for the safety of the whole
ship's company depends on him, and there is the fine tradition, which
British captains always live up to, that in case of any accident
happening to the ship the captain must be the last man to quit her.
Innumerable captains indeed have preferred to go down into the
unfathomable depths with their ships sooner than leave them when they
have been wrecked.

For several days there are very few people to be seen about, and the
rows