d with sequins thrown
round her head in place of a hat, but, alas, all this magnificence is
spoilt by the pair of tight and obviously most uncomfortable yellow
leather European shoes, which she has put on to show how fashionable she
is. When she climbs into the carriage she immediately takes them off,
putting them on the seat beside her, and shows a pair of bare brown feet
without shame. The shoes were only meant for show, and she has endured
them to the utmost!

Well, we are off! And as it is dark we can't, unfortunately, see much of
the country, which at first is quite pretty. Presently we cross the sea
by a long bridge and notice the lights reflected sparkling in the water,
and then we begin to climb up into the hills and it quickly grows
colder.

While we go along to the restaurant-car for dinner Ramaswamy takes
advantage of the stoppage of the train to hasten along, settling his
turban as he comes. He must never appear before us without it; we are
supposed to think it a fixture on his round cropped head, and also he
must not come into a room where we are with his shoes on! Odd how
fashion differs! With us men remove the head-covering on entering a
room, but would not dream of being so rude as to take off their shoes!

When we come back after dinner we find our bedding neatly spread out and
looking very inviting. As there is nothing else to do it is not long
before we turn in and fall asleep, lulled by the rumbling of the train.

I am deep in dreamland when I am woke unpleasantly by a draught of icy
air as the door at the end of the compartment is pushed open, and I
realise the train has stopped at a station. The native guard stands in
the doorway apologetically fumbling with the key which he has just used
in undoing the door. "Mem-sahib coming in," says he hopelessly, and a
very disagreeable high-pitched voice makes itself heard behind him.
Pushing rudely past come a man and woman so much alike they must be
brother and sister; they have both coarse features and clumsy squat
figures; they speak English but with a strong Colonial accent of some
kind.

"They can't have it _all_ their own way," says Madam viciously. "I'm
coming in here, and that's flat."

An overloaded coolie follows, and dumps down masses of rolled-up bedding
and trunks into the small space between our bunks and departs.

"This compartment is engaged," I say as politely as I can, conscious
that I don't look dignified in shirt-sleeves, but than